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Womenwear Autumn/Winter 2019 Shows

  • Author:Womenwear
  • Release on:2019-08-28
The 3 of 14 Most Talked About Shows of The Season

1.Tomo Koizumi

In a climate in which clothes must have a “message”, especially in New York, Tomo Koizumi’s dresses were refreshingly absent of agenda; a series of huge, voluminous ruffled dresses in pretty pastel colours all fabricated in a Japanese polyester organza and inspired, according to the designer, by “abstract paintings, and the colours you see at magic hour when looking at the sky”. They were extravagant and costume-y. Not many of them were very wearable, I watched the Game of Thrones actress and sometime model Gwendoline Christie negotiate the staircase in a spectacular rainbow ruffled jumpsuit with my heart in my mouth. But the show put a smile on people’s faces. It was pretty and fabulous, and fun.

2.Bottega Veneta

The 32-year-old, largely unknown Englishman,Englishman was appointed to the house by Kering last June.As the director of ready-to-wear design at Celine's Celine, he worked with Phoebe Philo to help the brand earn about 800 million euros and cultivate a devout female customer tribe. Fans will recognize many of his signatures in his first Bottega Veneta show - circular knitwear with round cut panels, heavy elastic Chelsea boots, scoop neck tops and bourgeois sensual drama - the smallest corporate cut Jackets, shirts - have more subversive elements, such as wrinkled tulle evening gowns and leather bras. But this is more complicated than I expected. The women's design is ambitious: the skirt is turquoise, folded on both sides, chained; thick quilted motorcycle pants; tailored to mimic the famous weaving of the house; a series of mirrored embroidered dresses and shirts. There are many things to happen.


Miuccia Pradas collection for Prada was mostly black, staged on a jagged, spiked, sponge floor, sparsely lit, and rather angry. The models wore dark wool separates, tweeds, flak jackets, sparkly shoes and lace. Dresses with the classic Prada sweetheart neckline were fashioned in a raw grey tweed. A rose print motif was encircled by thorns. The models had Wednesday Addams hairstyles but they just as easily recalled Greta Thunberg, the Swedish 16-year-old climate change activist, who also has waist-length braids. Prada said her collection was about fear, and the threat of war in general. And romance. And, indeed, this was a show of extremes. It was dark and light, rebellious and romantic. It featured stompy, heavy boots and a goth-metal soundtrack (spliced with campy horror themes such as The X Files) mixed with flashes of deep femininity lace veils, crystal embellishments and rose adornments (some, stuck on outfits in wilting silk bouquets). Its dark energy was exciting the clothes were better still.